Rawlins Plantation Hotel and Restaurant
Fine dining meets the Old Caribbean at this petite inn
By Paris Permenter and John Bigley
Sometimes in a career, an assignment comes along you'll always remember.
One of ours came a few years ago: seeking out the Caribbean's best rum
punch. For the readers' sake, we took our task seriously. We searched
from beach bars to hotel hideaways, sampling umbrella-topped liquid libations
with more personality than punch -- and others that put the punch back
in punch with a heavy hand that called for the extinction of any open
flames in the room.
But then we reached St. Kitts' Rawlins Plantation. On our introductory
visit to this tranquil inn, we found our winner: a delicate drink the
color of an island sunset, showcasing sugar's mellow elixir with tropical
juices, all topped with a sprinkle of nutmeg.
The sugar which forms the basis of this memorable rum punch has a long
history here at this petite hideaway, tucked 350 feet above sea level
on the slopes of Mount Liamuiga. As far back as 1690, a plantation at
this location began producing sugar. At the time, the site was one of
50 or 60 estates that produced sugar on the island, using a sail driven
windmill to provide the power to grind the sugar.
Nearly 300 years later, the greathouse, burned in an early fire, was reconstructed
and opened as an inn. Today Rawlins is in the hands of Cordon Bleu-trained
chef Claire Rawson and her husband, Paul. The windmill remains as a reminder
of that early history and today the 300-year-old structure makes a romantic
honeymoon suite.
Guest Rooms
The suite is one of only 10 rooms at this small inn. Each room is unique,
housed in a cottage on the plantation's rolling grounds. Many rooms are
nestled in buildings that once served as outbuildings on the old plantation.
Reminders of the historic roots of this property abound with many stone
walls, wooden floors, and antiques, all punctuated with the colors of
the Caribbean found in everything from pillows to plants. Guests find
their rooms surrounded by tropical gardens where hummingbirds often dart
about the hibiscus, African tulip, oleander, flamboyant, datura, and other
blooms.
Modern amenities include hairdryers, showers, and ceiling fans, but the
elegance of the "old Caribbean" is maintained with the exclusion
of air-conditioning, telephones, televisions, and minibars. Room rates
include laundry service, one of the many pampering touches which help
guests feel right at home. A quiet atmosphere is also maintained by the
no-kids policy although children age 12 and over are welcomed.
Out and About
While for many travelers, Rawlins is the perfect place to do absolutely
nothing but sit on the verandah and view the Dutch and French islands
which lie in the distance, restless visitors can find diversions which
range from croquet to boules. The hotel also includes a spring-fed swimming
pool and a grass tennis court as well as scenic walks. To get out and
about, guests can arrange an island tour, a trip on St. Kitts' railway,
scuba diving, rain forest hikes, a trip to Nevis, or a visit to the beach.
The nearest beach is two miles away (although most visitors prefer to
travel 16 miles to a white sand beach.)
Fine Dining at Rawlins
But for many guests, the main activity at Rawlins is its fine dining thanks
to the talents of chef Claire Rawson. Room rates here include both breakfast
and dinner (as well as afternoon tea), a perfect excuse for spending a
quiet evening on the great house terrace or in one of the antiques-filled
dining rooms. Claire and her staff serve an ever-changing menu, which
combines the flair of gourmet dining with the flavor of the West Indies.
Guests and non-guests also stop by Rawlins Plantation for the daily West
Indian lunch buffet. The dishes are prepared using fresh seafood and herbs
and vegetables from the Rawsons' garden, not to mention fruits that grow
right outside the doors like mango, papaya, banana, passion fruit, avocado,
breadfruit and lime. Local favorites such as saffron rice, curried chicken,
and flying fish fritters are showcased, followed by sweet favorites likes
soursop sorbet.
But for many diners, the sweetest local product is enjoyed before lunch.
The rum punch serves not only as a tasty treat but also a link to the
sugar history which gave Rawlins Plantation its start.
If You Go
Rawlins Plantation Hotel and Restaurant
St. Paul's, St. Kitts
Telephone: (869) 465-6221
www.rawlinsplantation.com
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