Tobago's Coco Reef Resort and Spa
Luxury and languid days make the perfect antidote
to a loud Carnival
By Paris Permenter & John Bigley
Our feet hurt. Our heads hurt. We hadn't slept in days. In short, Carnival
had been wonderful.
For the past four days, we'd been experiencing Trinidad's Carnival, a
pulsating heartbeat of humanity that winds through the streets of Port
of Spain. We'd chipped, we'd shuffled, we had lost ourselves in the pounding
rhythm of the Caribbean's largest annual celebration that for many serves
as an annual rebirth.
But now, frankly, we were tired. After such a strenuous awakening, there
must come rest. For most travelers, that means a quiet getaway with the
quick trip from frenetic Trinidad to placid Tobago, known for its natural
beauty and relaxed atmosphere--an atmosphere so quiet that Trinidadians
say it's for "the newly wed and the nearly dead." For us, it
meant a few days at the Coco Reef Resort, a luxury hotel on the southwestern
coast.
We'd visited Tobago on a previous trip, exploring its nature trails and
scuba options from small inns on the north coast. But this time, we were
ready to relax, kick back for a few days after our Carnival craziness
and just enjoy the almost deafening peace and quiet.
Rooms, Suites & Villas
Fittingly, the sun was nearly touching the placid Caribbean sea as we
checked into Coco Reef's Sunset Villa. Set apart from the rest of the
hotel, this charming house is constructed in true Caribbean fashion with
a red tin roof, gingerbread trim, and its own private lawn overlooking
the sea. Decks lead down from the porch to overlook the water; indoors,
the villa revealed its true luxury, with two baths sporting gold-tone
fixtures and marble floors, a full-size living room with wet bar, and
a sprawling bedroom with its own patio as well. Romance couldn't ask for
a better setting.
Not that the other accommodations at the resort weren't equally tempting.
Along with the villa, Coco Reef offers two suites: the Presidential Suite
and The Havana Suite, complete with dining room, two lounges, and a terrace
for outdoor dining. Other options, all with an elegant Caribbean decor,
included eight garden villa suites, nine suites, 15 junior suites, and
100 deluxe rooms, most with ocean views. All rooms include satellite TV,
a mini-refrigerator, direct dial telephones, hair dryer, and twice daily
maid service.
The casual elegance of the rooms extends to the public
areas as well, as we saw as soon as we arrived at the resort. Here, beneath
the porte-cochere, we were greeted not only by a friendly bellman but
also the unexpected appearance of a Rolls Royce Silver Cloud. We later
learned that the 1959 classic was once owned by actor Errol Flynn; today
the elegant auto is often used for transporting brides and grooms to the
resort. A second Rolls Royce provides stylish airport transfers.
Throughout the resort, we saw classic Caribbean touches, ranging from
Trinidadian filigree to Jamaican posts and columns. Coco Reef's champagne
bar, Bobsters, is decorated with murals of the region's most famous entertainers.
Nearby, The Gallery served afternoon tea as well as Caribbean cocktails
amidst bamboo palms. Two dining options tempted us as well: Tamara's,
an open-air dining room with international cuisine in the evenings as
well as a buffet breakfast, and Bacchanals, a casual beachside eatery
open for lunch and featuring Caribbean cuisine for dinner.
Dining at Coco Reef
On our first full day at Coco Reef, we considered our options over breakfast.
The list of activities was tempting. The spa offered a range of treatments
from repair of sun damaged hair to deep tissue massage. Watersports ranged
from windsurfing and scuba diving to sunfish sailing and snorkeling. We
could arrange tours to Tobago's rainforest preserve, spend a full day
on a private island excursion, golf at Mt. Irving, arrange for horseback
riding on the beach, play tennis, tour Fort King George, or set up a birdwatching
outing.
Or, we could do nothing at all. After all, we were here to rest up, weren't
we. Hmm…
In the end, we opted to sit out on the private lawn of our villa and watch
the waves lap the white sand of the two beaches which neighbored the resort.
To the west, Store Bay was home to a few early risers, enjoying a beach
walk with their families. To the east, Pigeon Point was a splendor, with
postcard-perfect palms leaning precariously over the water.
As we sipped our morning coffee, we watched a dozen figures along the
edge of Pigeon Point. Several were clad in suits and ties; one young girl
wore shorts and a t-shirt. As we watched, she followed a robed man into
the sea for a baptism, island style. It was another rebirth, like the
revelers at Carnival or the guests at a resort where relaxation can be
the best activity of all.
If You Go
Coco Reef Resort and Spa
Scarborough, Tobago
Telephone: (868) 639-8571
Facsimile: (868) 639-8574
www.cocoreef.com
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